Marsanny Cuvée Speciale Pur Pot 2013, Domaine Fournier

FPOT13

"The 2013 Pur Pôt comes from 45-year-old vines on hard limestone soils in Clos du Roy and includes 80% whole-bunch fruit. It is very expressive on the nose, more backward than the P’tite Grumotte, with black plum and boyseneberry scents, wilted violet petals and limestone (obviously). The palate is medium-bodied with tightly-knitted tannin. There is very good depth here with a powe...

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"
The 2013 Pur Pôt comes from 45-year-old vines on hard limestone soils in Clos du Roy and includes 80% whole-bunch fruit. It is very expressive on the nose, more backward than the P’tite Grumotte, with black plum and boyseneberry scents, wilted violet petals and limestone (obviously). The palate is medium-bodied with tightly-knitted tannin. There is very good depth here with a powerful but unapologetically broody finish. Excellent." 90-92 point

"Readers may remember that last year I sang the praises of winemaker Laurent Fournier. So it was only right that I visit his domaine in Marsannay on my next opportunity. He has a bespoke tasting room, modern and chic, unusual for Burgundy, where often I am balancing my laptop on a barrel next to layers of creeping black mold. Laurent himself was suffering a bit of a cold, which only slightly dampened his outgoing and refreshingly chatty personality. “We have just over 17 hectares, although 4.5 hectares have been replanted in recent years,” he explained. “The story of the domaine begins in the first part of the 17th century with Swiss origins. My grandfather was a vigneron with other crops such as cherries and asparagus and it was my father Jean that decided to make wine and to vinify himself from the 1965. I started working at the domaine with my father in 2001 and I’ve been alone since 2003.” We commenced with a tasting of wines made from Aligoté Dorée. “I am a big fan of this grape variety. We do a classic ageing in 600-liter barrels for 12 months. It does not have a strong character, but it explains the origin of the terroir.” Laurent told me that he prefers to use less wood nowadays. “For the débourbage were trying to keep the wine the longest possible without sulfites to make it stronger against oxidation, though if we have a bad evolution of the wine then we will add it. In 2013 we added SO2 after the first racking. I don’t like stainless steel for ageing. I find that is gives the wine a cold character, so I try to finish the ageing in concrete tank and I have found this better. Nowadays I’m using more pièces than demi-muids because they make the wine more expressive.” Laurent also make a nifty rosé, which of course, Marsannay is renowned for. “We try to produce rosé without saignée to produce a wine for the gastronomy. I don’t want to make a cheap and easy wine,” he explained. Alongside Sylvain Pataille and Bruno Clair, this domaine is one that is at the top of its game. In particular, check out his stunning expressions of Bougogne Aligoté that will change your perception of this oft-maligned variety. Also, his Côtes de Nuits Croix Violettes Vieilles Vignes must rank as one of best I have ever tasted. Laurent has a penchant for a bit of experimentation. His P’tite Grumotte is picked the day before his harvest officially begins, when his own small team of pickers enter Les Longerois and Les Ouzeloy to pick out just the millerandé berries. It is stunning."

Domaine Jean Fournier:
Domaine Jean Fournier er under ledelse af Laurent Fournier. Til trods for sin unge alder har han allerede meget erfaring som vinmager. Han er uddannet i Beaune og har fået en del af sin praktiske erfaring i Pomerol, hvor han var tilknyttet Château La Fleur-Pétrus.

I 2011 fik Laurent Fournier tildelt den prestigefyldte ”Trophée des Jeunes Talents”, en anerkendelse, som går til den bedste unge vinbonde i henholdsvis Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune og Côte Chalonnaise.

Domænet består af 18 ha vinmarker, hvoraf størstedelen ligger i Marsannay og giver primært rødvine, men også hvidvine og rosé. Derudover ejer Domaine Fournier marker i Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin og Côtes de Nuits Villages. Markerne er dyrket økologisk siden starten af 2000’erne, og domænet blev certificeret i 2011.

Den høje kvalitet i Domaine Jean Fourniers vine skyldes nogle rigtig gode terroirs, vinstokke med en høj alder og ikke mindst et meget dedikeret arbejde fra vinbondens side.



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