Macon Fuisse 2014 Bois de la Croix, Domaine Thibert

HTHIBMACON14

"Producer note: Christophe Thibert told me that 2012 was a vintage where "the crop was exceptionally small due to a variety of negative factors of which the most important was the high incidence of shatter caused by the poor flowering. Sugars were good though acidities were a bit below average. A number of my neighbors blocked portions of the malos to help compensate but I believe that the ac...

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"Producer note: Christophe Thibert told me that 2012 was a vintage where "the crop was exceptionally small due to a variety of negative factors of which the most important was the high incidence of shatter caused by the poor flowering. Sugars were good though acidities were a bit below average. A number of my neighbors blocked portions of the malos to help compensate but I believe that the acidity is just one element that reflects the growing season and the unique character of each vintage. As such I did not adjust the acidity or block any portion of the malo. After all, why bother to put a vintage declaration on the label if you're going to try to standardize all vintages to reflect someone's view of what a perfect wine is supposed to be? I don't buy that. Otherwise, 2012 is a perfectly good if not great vintage that people will enjoy because the wines are frank and generous

Tasting note: An expressive nose of peach and honeysuckle is heavy on glycerol and pungent resin characters introduces lacy, even lilting flavors that possess fine delineation, all wrapped in a clean, cool and focused finish. A wine of finesse and understatement"
86-89 point i The Bourghound af Allen Medows.


Niel Martin skrev:
"The silver lining of having precisely zero wines ready to taste at the BIVB upon my arrival was an impromptu visit to the village of Fuisse and Domaine Thibert Pere & Fils. As luck would have it, my first visit to a Maconnais winery on this trip provided a treasure trove of often outstanding wines overseen by brother and sister, Christophe and Sandrine Thibert. Christophe was brimming over with ideas, cautiously optimistic for his beloved region with the prospect of Macon’s Premier Cru denomination that would surely benefit growers like him. Upon the first introductory shake of hands, I experienced that “vibe,” a subliminal message that assures you are in the presence of conscientious vignerons. And so it was proven through the two-hour comprehensive tasting. Domaine Thibert Pere & Fils is one of the few Maconnais producers to really nail the idea of “selection parcellaire”: honing in on plots with common geological characteristics and bottling them separately. Out in the vineyard they practice organic viticulture and a lutte raisonnee approach and it was clear that the terroirs were clearly translated into the wine with the clarity of anything in the Cote d’Or thanks to Christophe’s minimalist intervention and judicious use of oak, often utilizing no more than around 10% new wood. This domaine has only really taken off in recent years since its modest beginnings back in the late 1960s. Most of their holdings are within the ambit of Fuisse, although it has expanded in recent years so that there are now 26 hectares scattered across Macon. Christophe cited 2007 as the key turning point, when his ideas really began to coalesce in terms of viticulture and focusing upon the mosaic of terroirs. While the entry level wines represent good value (and do not ignore their rip-roaring fruit packed sparkling Cremant rose), those seeking more intellect should head straight for the Pouilly-Fuisse bottlings that are often imbued with immense complexity and nuance. The only obstacle at the moment is the lack of space and their current facility is not so much cramped, but certainly “cozy.” Fortunately, there are plans to expand the winery so that Christophe will be more at liberty to extend elevage when necessary. Readers disowning white Burgundy because of prices or premox or both, should really stock up on these wines"