Domaine Remoissenet, Batard Montrachet Grand Cru, Bourgogne, Frankrig
Beskrivelse:
Robert Parker i Hedonist´s Gazette
Tildeler her Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Point
Lai Wah Heen
November 2007
Robert Parker
This is a sensational venue for refined, sophisticated as well as creative Dim Sum dishes (the dinner menu also offers very ambitious classic Cantonese cuisine) from Chef Ken Tam. Many observers believe Lai Wah Heen offers the finest Dim Sum in North America, and while I would put the best from Virginia's Mark's Duck House against it, there is really no need to compare the two. This was superb Dim Sum served in a beautiful restaurant in downtown Toronto. Moreover, the impeccable quality of the service, the ambiance, and the chef's creativity put it in a class by itself in terms of high end Cantonese restaurants.
As for the wines, we had two wines produced under the new ownership of the huge Beaune négociant firm of Remoissenet. Both 2005s were brilliant white Burgundies, with the Bienvenue slightly richer than the Bâtard. Both are young, classic efforts. It is good to see this négociant rebound under the new American leadership. The magnum of 1947 Cheval Blanc affirmed that this is "the wine" of the 20th century. I have had great bottles, volatile bottles, bottles that tasted port-like, and others that tasted like traditional Bordeaux. This example seemed incredibly young, which always raises the eyebrows given the Rodenstock scandal and all the articles that have appeared recently about fraudulent wines, a subject I first wrote about extensively nearly 15 years ago. The color was deep ruby with just a hint of lightening at the edge. It smelled like Cheval Blanc, and tasted like a ripe, full-bodied Cheval (which the 1947 is). However, at 60 years of age, it seemed remarkably youthful. Pristine bottles such as this do exist, so I have no way of knowing if this magnum had been slightly doctored. It was a fabulous wine, but everyone's antennas were raised.
I highly recommend this restaurant, and I will certainly drink a 1947 Cheval Blanc anytime it's served.
Lai Toh Heen Restaurant, Metropolitan Hotel, 108 Chestnut St., Toronto, Canada Tel. (416) 977-9899 tel. (212) 288-0033
Food:
Assorted Dim Sum, including steamed Phoenix Eye shaped perch; steamed duckling dumplings filled with foie gras paste; baked salmon, seafood and cheese turnovers; deep-fried dumplings of crab meat and taro; vegetarian roll of truffle, exotic mushrooms, and bean curd; crystal shrimp dumplings; dumplings with minced chicken and scallions; Peking duck.
David Schildknecht om Remoissenet eRobertParker.com
"The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repolt as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that - along with marketing - is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must - although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune - and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile.."
