|
The appellation areas : Following a decree in 1909, the zones of production were defined ; Bas-Armagnac, Haut Armagnac and Ténarèze, altogether forming a vineyard in the shape of a vine leaf and spreading over three departments ; the Gers, the Landes and the Lot et Garonne. The terms « high » or « low » are simply geographic and have no bearing on the quality of the Armagnac.
Bas-Armagnac is the most Western with the capital being Eauze. It represents 57% of the vineyards. This sandy zone is a gently rolling landscape over land with a clay and sand subsoil and a low limestone content. A wonderful site for the Armagnac vine. The result of these sandy soils characterised by their acidity called « Sables Fauves », are fine, fruity and delicate eaux-de-vies that are highly prized.
Ténarèze is situated around the town of Condom has a clay and limestone soil. It's eaux-de-vies are lively and full-bodied expressing their richness after a long ageing.
Haut-Armagnac whose capital is Auch represents a minute part of Armagnac production. It's soil is mainly chalky, but one still finds excellent eaux-de-vies here today.
On 6th August 1936, a decree creating the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée for Armagnac defined the regulations for the production of Armagnac.
The grape varieties used in Armagnac are predominantly :
- Ugni-Blanc (sometimes called Saint-Emilion) : An excellent variety for distillation. It is grown on the sables fauves in Bas-Armagnac and is a variety that is well adapted to the production of fine and floral eaux-de-vies. The Armagnacs originating from this grape have proved to be outstanding.
- Folle Blanche : This variety gives eaux-de-vies that are very aromatic, elegant and characterised by long lasting aromas, lively, dry and pointed notes. It truly unveils its bouquet after ten years of ageing, in the mean time, the floral notes can be appreciated in the Blanche or in young Armagnacs.
- Bacco : An excellent variety for ageing. After long ageing, Bacco gives a full, rich and intense aroma to the old vintages that are expressed in its roundness, sophistication and length.
- Colombard : It's fruity and spicy aromas are notably appreciated in the blends.
There are equally other varieties that are authorised, like Blanc Dame (Clairette de Gascogne), le plant de Graisse, Jurançon blanc, Mauzac white and rosé and Meslier Saint François. These are all varieties that are rarely represented today.
Creation of Armagnac :
The creation of Armagnac remains a traditional craft comprising of three stages : the vinification, the distillation and the ageing.
The vinification : The grapes harvested during the month of October are immediately vinified in the natural way :the grapes are gently pressed, squeezed and put into tanks where the fermentation takes place without addition of any products. The wines are made in general quite quickly and are left on their lees until distillation.
The distillation takes place in the winter once the fermentation has finished and is obligatory in the few months that follow the harvest. The distillation is a major phase in the creation of an authentic armagnac. It takes place in an alambic designed specifically for this eau-de-vie, an Alambic armagnacais known as a « simple chauffe » (single heating) or « chauffe continue ». The double chauffe distillation used for example in the production of cognac is practiced for a small part of the production. In general, the armagnacaise method is preferred for it is gentler and conserves more elements of the grape according a more exceptional taste. This skilful and complex art demands great vigilance by the distiller, this is when the Gascon genius comes in.
The process of distillation consists of separating and collecting the alcohol and the aromas contained in the wine.
The armagnacais alambic, a copper apparatus, is fed by cold wine that cools the alcohol vapours contained in the « serpentine » (coil). The wine starts to heat up in the « chauffe-vin » (wine heater), which contains the coil. Next, the wine crosses to an intermediate condenser where it passes down through the plates in the column into which the alcohol vapours rise from the boiler filling it with its aromas. It reaches the boiler where the alcohol and the volatile esters that will give it its character are separated and in turn rise again in the column. This procedure in additon to providing an eau-de-vie of great finesse, is particularly clever from the point of thermal efficiency, since the wine has been preheated while serving as a cooler for the vapours that condense. This method as sanctified by a royal decree in 1818 by Louis XVIII. The eaux-de-vies obtained are between 52% vol and 72% vol and totally colourless when they leave the alambic though already revealing their aromas the quality will be heightened by ageing.
The ageing : Once it has left the alambic, the eau-de-vie is transferred into 400 or 420 litre oak barrels. The oak is French, generally coming from the forests of Gascony. The wood will give the Armagnac its tannins and aromatic substances which, in time will fuse in the eau-de-vie. Through a chain of complex reactions in ageing, the eau-de-vie will take on the subtle aromas of vailla at the same time as its wonderful amber colour. The Armagnac will stay in new barrels until the maître de chai (cellar master) transfers it into older barrels to perfect and balance its ageing without overdoing it. With the passing of years, the alcoholic degree slowly diminishes by natural evaporation, known as « la part des anges » (the angel's share).
Once the Armagnac has aged sufficiently (in general after thirty years), it is then transfered into glass demi-johns called « dame-jeanne » in order to conserve its quality. The young armagnacs are sold for blending to those who are practiced in this area, in other words, creating a harmonious blend of several eaux-de-vies that can be from different origins and different ages.
Their titles can be :
- « VS » or « Three Star » : armagnacs that have aged for at least two years
- « VSOP » : At least five years of ageing
- « Napoléon » : Minimum of six years ageing
- « Hors d'Age » or « 10 years old » : armagnacs that have aged for at least 10 years.
The armagnacs sold as vintages (10 years of ageing) correspond exclusively to the year of harvest.
The qualities of an armagnac are appreciated according to a balance of five visual, olfactory and taste criterion :
The colour : A golden to deep ruby is preferred. The greeny or colours that are too dark are avoided.
The clarity : A good Armagnac must be completely transparent. One says therefore that the Armagnac is « vierge » (virgin). When turned in the glass, the « tears » that stick to the sides of the glass show a viscosity that is a sign of quality. It is said that Armagnac « cries ».
The nose : When held in the palm of the hand, a glass of Armagnac reaches the ideal temperature of 25°C. A good quality Armagnac gives off a deep aroma. Only very old Armagnacs produce a prominent fragrance of prunes. Once the glass is empty, the aromas will last for 24 hours or more, depending on the age of the Armagnac.
The taste : After the initial intensity of the alcohol, the well aged Armagnacs must leave a sensation of smoothness and maturity.
The length : It must leave a pleasant aftertaste. The persistence of taste has just as much to do with the age as it does with the quality.
|
|
